Mating Tips
Q) At what age should a bitch have the first litter?
A) Never breed on a bitch's first season (if this should happen seek your vets advice immediately).
Some of the older dog books state the best time is second or third season, however it is now thought to be
better to wait until the age of two, if in doubt talk to you own vet.
Q) what do i do about worming a bitch ,that you are planning to breed from
A) we worm our bitches on the first day of season ,then worm her again two days after we worm her pups, when the litter is two weeks old.
however some breeders worm a bitch , during pregnancy (if you worm while pregnant ask your vets advise).
Q) what do i do about vaccinating a bitch ,that you are planning to breed from
A)
If your bitch will be due her anual booster during pregnancy or while feeding her litter. (we would bring this forward ,to before the start of her season )this gives mum a better immunity to pass on to her litter.
Q) what do if my bitch needs treatment from my vet after mating
A) tell your vet your bitch may be pregnant, this may change the medication you are given.
Q) Should my bitch be health tested before breeding?
A) If your bitch was brought from parents clear of L2-GHA & HC, your kennel club paperwork should state this on registration papers,
it will state hereditary clear of both L2-GHA & HC
If you do not see this then you should have your bitch tested (by useing a stud dog that is clear)
your litter will not be affected themselves but could be carriers.
Q) How do I get my bitch tested?
A) A blood sample is sent to the AHT animal health trust its best to download your own form on line.(scroll to the bottom of this page to read more and to down load the forms required) take down loaded forms to your vet, at the time the blood is taken.
It is advisable at all times to keep you bitch fit and not let her become over weight, but even more important in a bitch that you plan to breed from.
Q) At what point in the season do I take her to the stud dog?
A) This is the hardest thing to answer, the books say from 9 -12 days from the first day of colour (bleeding) but if only the bitches read books!!
I recommend that each morning you dab your bitch with a white kitchen towel, at the start of her season it’s a dark red, as she reaches ovulation it becomes lighter
in colour still blood stained but lighter and thinner than before!
You need to know when your bitch will stand for your chosen stud.
If you run your fingers down your bitches back towards the tail she will move her tail to one side please look to the picture below.
Q)my bitch had a litter on her last season, when can she have her next litter
A)the bitch should only have one litter a year, give her at least one season rest before mating her again
Please notice the difference in the position of the vulva in picture 1 & picture 2
When you see your bitch move her tail and lift her vulva as you scratch her tail base she is nearing ovulation at this point its time to try with your stud dog.
Q) When my bitch was taken to the stud she growled & would not let him near her. Why?
A) Try again tomorrow her mood can change that quickly, a bitch that is ovulating becomes very calm & placid, she knows when the time is right!
It can be very frustrating to travel a distance to the stud, and then she will not accept him but you will know by her mood straight away if mating will take place.
Never continue to try or you could end up with a fight on your hands, if the timing is right its an easy, calm & an enjoyable experience for all concerned.
Q) My bitch is a maiden (never been mated) what is the best type of dog to use with her?
A) In a maiden bitch its best to use a proven dog, this is a dog that knows what to do.
Two first timers can be much harder to get a successful mating.
We have had a very high success rate on a mating that takes place on day 11 & day 13
But not all bitches are the same, some ovulate early & others very late.
When traveling a long distance to the stud dog it is important to take the bitch on the best day possible
We missed with Lola & Blue on our first attempt on her next season we will be trying out Ovulation Test Pads
They have been highly reccomended by other breeders, this product is available from www.ovulationpads.info/
We have put this information on our web page so you can try them
The Canine Ovulation Test Pads are cost effective, easy to read with instant results at home.
There is no need for complicated electrical testing or any other test that is sometimes hard to read or understand.
No need to take your bitch to the vets for blood tests when it’s so simple to test at home.
(quote direct from suppliers web site)
I was desperate to find a simple solution to see when my bitches were ovulating, it was hard for me as both seemed to have very light and almost silent seasons. After trying other testers and blood tests nothing seemed to work and everything was complicated or needed a trip to the vets.
Then I found the Pads, my bitch fell pregnant and we had 9 healthy puppies.
How do they work?
The pads change colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy on the days your bitch is ovulating.
this is normally just 2 - 3 days per season.
You can start testing with the pads as early as day 1 of her season.
It is suggested an early start in case you have missed a few days of bleeding or colour
if your bitches have silent seasons. For best results you can test morning and evening
wipe the vulva area clean, open the vulva, and gently place the pad about 1 – 3 cm’s inside
place the pads sideways into the vulva so the pad soaks up vaginal fluid and hold in place for a count of 10 seconds
The pad edges are plastic and can be sharp please check before use but do not touch the pink part of the pad; this may lead to a false or incorrect result.
After 10 seconds remove the pad and ensure it is soaked with vaginal fluid, wait for 30 seconds, if the pad remains pink with no colour change at all, your bitch is not ovulating. If the pad starts to turn colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy even if there is just one small spot or corner change of colour this is a positive result and your bitch is ovulating and you can plan her mating. If left longer than a few minutes the pads will naturally go darker in the air.
Please note the initial change only. Continue to test your bitch so you know exactly the days of ovulation and note when ovulation is complete.
The pads will then remain pink with no colour change confirming ovulation has passed.
Ovulation is triggered by the LH surge which causes the ovaries to release the developing eggs.
The eggs cannot be fertilised upon immediate release from the ovaries. However, normally within 24 – 48 hours after the eggs become sperm friendly and are ready to be fertilised.
Breeders have found that thier best results came from mating on the second day of ovulation then repeated 48 hours after.
However, if you need to travel to a Stud Dog the optimum day for mating when the eggs are sperm friendly is 48 hours after ovulation.
Note: Some bitches can ovulate as early as day 5 and as late as day 21!
WARNING! DON'T TOUCH THE PINK PART OF THE PAD,this may affect your results.
Here are some photographs of a Bulldog, This is just and example to show you how to use the pads.
.jpg)
.jpg)
1. Wipe the vulva area clean and wipe away any access blood.
2. Slightly open the vulva and insert the pad sideways up with the pink pad in the vulva
about 2 – 3 cm’s inside.
3. Hold the pads in place for a count of 10 seconds.
4. Remove the pad and ensure the pad is damp with vaginal fluid.
5. Read the results and compare with the results pictures below if you are unsure.
Below are 3 photos explaining positive and negative results.
Photo 1 on the left is a no change negative result, on the right of the same photo is a positive result, where the pad has changed colour.
Photo 2 is a close up of the result, you can see how the pad has changed colour
Photos 3 shows how sometimes colour or spots just appear purple/burgundy around the edges of the pad, this indicates a positive result, results can vary from one small spot of colour to the whole pad colour change.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Test your bitches ovulation time at home.
Easy to read and cost effective
No need for expensive blood tests
No need to take your healthy bitch to the vets
Visit the website for FULL information and to
buy on line
www.ovulationpads.info/
Canine Ovulation Test Pads
www.ovulationpads.info/
ovulationpads@aol.com
Tel 01233 635544
HEALTH ISSUES
IN THE STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is by nature a robust
and healthy breed. However there are a couple of hereditary health issues
which you need to be aware of if you are considering buying a new puppy
or planning to breed from your bitch.
Report from
1.
L-2-HGA Hydroxyglutaric Aciduria
In the past few
years a small number of Staffords have been diagnosed with a metabolic
disorder, its clinical name is L2 hydroxyglutaric aciduria or L-2-HGA.
This condition manifests itself in varied ways with affected dogs displaying
behavioural changes and dementia, anxiety attacks, having full blown
seizures, as well as exercise intolerance and ataxia (unsteady gait),
tremors and muscular stiffness. Dogs from totally different bloodlines
have been found to be sufferers and the number of affected dogs diagnosed
has risen. The disorder (and a similar linked disorder D-2 HGA) is found
in humans, again very rare, but nevertheless devastating for those families
affected by it. The disorder has an autosomal recessive method of inheritance,
which means that both parents must be carriers of the affected gene
to produce affected offspring.
Through excessive
hard work not only on behalf of the Animal Health Trust at Newmarket
and by people submitting blood and urine samples from the families of
affected animals a genetic test has been determined to identify the
carriers of the gene which causes L-2-HGA.
IT IS THEREFORE
ADVISABLE THAT ALL BREEDING STOCK BE SCREENED IN ORDER TO ERADICATE
THIS CONDITION IN THE FUTURE.
This can be done by submitting a blood sample to the AHT at Newmarket.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
TESTING
CAN TAKE UP TO 6 WEEKS FOR RESULTS SO PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THIS
DONE IN PLENTY OF TIME BEFORE YOUR PLANNED MATING.
2. HC
– HEREDITARY CATARACTS.
It is known that
HC is inherited by and automal recessive path (i.e. both parents must
be carriers of the defective gene to produce and affected offspring).
HC is a progressive condition and this means that although a puppy is
not born with cataracts they will start to develop at a juvenile age.
(maybe from 8 months onwards), and will progress until the dog is totally
blind. This condition is bilateral which means is affects both eyes
equally. Thanks to the tireless research by the Animal Health Trust
in Newmarket there is a now a DNA Test for Hereditary Cataracts.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
3. PHPV
– PERSITENT HYPERPLASTIC PRIMARY VITREOUS
The mode of inheritance
of PHPV is not so clear, but it is known that it is a congenital condition
(present at birth) and that it is not progressive. This means that if
a puppy is born with PHPV it can be detected by ophthalmic screening
from 6 weeks of age and if it is affected, whatever the condition of
the problem at that stage it will not change throughout the dogs life.
Either of the above
conditions can be operated on, but it is a serious operation and can
be traumatic and very expensive. It is not always covered by insurance
due to the hereditary nature.
Even though the
genetic test is now available for Hereditary Cataracts it is still important
to screen for PHPV.
4. PPSC
– POSTERIOR POLAR SUBCAPSULAR CATARACT.
This type of cataracts
is found in other breeds, particularly the Labrador and Golden Retriever.
It usually remains as a small, punctuate cataract and doesn’t
usually lead to sight problems in these two breeds. It has been placed
on schedule 3 of the BVA/KC/ISDS Eye Scheme because a number of Staffords
that have been through the Scheme have been found to have this type
of cataract. This type of cataract cannot be detected through litter
screening. The mode of inheritance is unknown and has a variable age
of onset. BREEDING STOCK SHOULD BE TESTED ANNUALLY TO DETERMINE
THAT THE DOG IS CERTIFIED CLEAR AT THE TIME OF MATING.
Eye
Testing Clinics
Here are some of The Kennel Club rules on breeding
Before thinking about breeding from your bitch, you should acquaint yourself with the Kennel Club Regulations on registering litters and the registration system in general. A Guide to Litter Registration can be obtained from the Kennel Club, but you will need to remember that the Kennel Club will not accept an application to register a litter when:
a) The bitch has already whelped six litters, or
b) The bitch was under a year old at the date of mating, or
c) The bitch has already reached the age of eight years at the date of whelping.
N.B. Relief from the last restriction may be considered provided the dam has previously whelped at least one other registered litter, and a written application is made prior to mating and supported by veterinary evidence confirming the suitability of the bitch involved in the proposed whelping.
You will also need to ensure that your bitch's Kennel Club registration does not carry a breeding restriction (endorsement). If there are any, you will need to discuss this further with the person from whom you obtained the bitch, as any breeding endorsement will need to be removed before registration of a litter can take place. In most cases it will be the breeder who has placed the endorsement, and who will therefore be the person empowered to remove it.
The other test required is phpv eye testing,
This needs to be done by an eye specialist
We found it hard to find out where to get this testing done
(here is the contact details of the people we used They will be able to put you incontact with a specialist in your area )
MR Mason
Seadown Veterinary Group
Frost Lane
Hythe
Southampton
Hampshire
SO45 3NG
023 8084 2237
A) we worm our bitches on the first day of season ,then worm her again two days after we worm her pups, when the litter is two weeks old.
however some breeders worm a bitch , during pregnancy (if you worm while pregnant ask your vets advise).
Q) what do i do about vaccinating a bitch ,that you are planning to breed from
A)
If your bitch will be due her anual booster during pregnancy or while feeding her litter. (we would bring this forward ,to before the start of her season )this gives mum a better immunity to pass on to her litter.
Q) what do if my bitch needs treatment from my vet after mating
A) tell your vet your bitch may be pregnant, this may change the medication you are given.
Q) Should my bitch be health tested before breeding?
A) If your bitch was brought from parents clear of L2-GHA & HC, your kennel club paperwork should state this on registration papers,
it will state hereditary clear of both L2-GHA & HC
If you do not see this then you should have your bitch tested (by useing a stud dog that is clear)
your litter will not be affected themselves but could be carriers.
Q) How do I get my bitch tested?
A) A blood sample is sent to the AHT animal health trust its best to download your own form on line.(scroll to the bottom of this page to read more and to down load the forms required) take down loaded forms to your vet, at the time the blood is taken.
It is advisable at all times to keep you bitch fit and not let her become over weight, but even more important in a bitch that you plan to breed from.
Q) At what point in the season do I take her to the stud dog?
A) This is the hardest thing to answer, the books say from 9 -12 days from the first day of colour (bleeding) but if only the bitches read books!!
I recommend that each morning you dab your bitch with a white kitchen towel, at the start of her season it’s a dark red, as she reaches ovulation it becomes lighter
in colour still blood stained but lighter and thinner than before!
You need to know when your bitch will stand for your chosen stud.
If you run your fingers down your bitches back towards the tail she will move her tail to one side please look to the picture below.
Q)my bitch had a litter on her last season, when can she have her next litter
A)the bitch should only have one litter a year, give her at least one season rest before mating her again
Please notice the difference in the position of the vulva in picture 1 & picture 2
When you see your bitch move her tail and lift her vulva as you scratch her tail base she is nearing ovulation at this point its time to try with your stud dog.
Q) When my bitch was taken to the stud she growled & would not let him near her. Why?
A) Try again tomorrow her mood can change that quickly, a bitch that is ovulating becomes very calm & placid, she knows when the time is right!
It can be very frustrating to travel a distance to the stud, and then she will not accept him but you will know by her mood straight away if mating will take place.
Never continue to try or you could end up with a fight on your hands, if the timing is right its an easy, calm & an enjoyable experience for all concerned.
Q) My bitch is a maiden (never been mated) what is the best type of dog to use with her?
A) In a maiden bitch its best to use a proven dog, this is a dog that knows what to do.
Two first timers can be much harder to get a successful mating.
We have had a very high success rate on a mating that takes place on day 11 & day 13
But not all bitches are the same, some ovulate early & others very late.
When traveling a long distance to the stud dog it is important to take the bitch on the best day possible
We missed with Lola & Blue on our first attempt on her next season we will be trying out Ovulation Test Pads
They have been highly reccomended by other breeders, this product is available from www.ovulationpads.info/
We have put this information on our web page so you can try them
The Canine Ovulation Test Pads are cost effective, easy to read with instant results at home.
There is no need for complicated electrical testing or any other test that is sometimes hard to read or understand.
No need to take your bitch to the vets for blood tests when it’s so simple to test at home.
(quote direct from suppliers web site)
I was desperate to find a simple solution to see when my bitches were ovulating, it was hard for me as both seemed to have very light and almost silent seasons. After trying other testers and blood tests nothing seemed to work and everything was complicated or needed a trip to the vets.
Then I found the Pads, my bitch fell pregnant and we had 9 healthy puppies.
How do they work?
The pads change colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy on the days your bitch is ovulating.
this is normally just 2 - 3 days per season.
You can start testing with the pads as early as day 1 of her season.
It is suggested an early start in case you have missed a few days of bleeding or colour
if your bitches have silent seasons. For best results you can test morning and evening
wipe the vulva area clean, open the vulva, and gently place the pad about 1 – 3 cm’s inside
place the pads sideways into the vulva so the pad soaks up vaginal fluid and hold in place for a count of 10 seconds
The pad edges are plastic and can be sharp please check before use but do not touch the pink part of the pad; this may lead to a false or incorrect result.
After 10 seconds remove the pad and ensure it is soaked with vaginal fluid, wait for 30 seconds, if the pad remains pink with no colour change at all, your bitch is not ovulating. If the pad starts to turn colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy even if there is just one small spot or corner change of colour this is a positive result and your bitch is ovulating and you can plan her mating. If left longer than a few minutes the pads will naturally go darker in the air.
Please note the initial change only. Continue to test your bitch so you know exactly the days of ovulation and note when ovulation is complete.
The pads will then remain pink with no colour change confirming ovulation has passed.
Ovulation is triggered by the LH surge which causes the ovaries to release the developing eggs.
The eggs cannot be fertilised upon immediate release from the ovaries. However, normally within 24 – 48 hours after the eggs become sperm friendly and are ready to be fertilised.
Breeders have found that thier best results came from mating on the second day of ovulation then repeated 48 hours after.
However, if you need to travel to a Stud Dog the optimum day for mating when the eggs are sperm friendly is 48 hours after ovulation.
Note: Some bitches can ovulate as early as day 5 and as late as day 21!
WARNING! DON'T TOUCH THE PINK PART OF THE PAD,this may affect your results.
Here are some photographs of a Bulldog, This is just and example to show you how to use the pads.
1. Wipe the vulva area clean and wipe away any access blood.
2. Slightly open the vulva and insert the pad sideways up with the pink pad in the vulva
about 2 – 3 cm’s inside.
3. Hold the pads in place for a count of 10 seconds.
4. Remove the pad and ensure the pad is damp with vaginal fluid.
5. Read the results and compare with the results pictures below if you are unsure.
Below are 3 photos explaining positive and negative results.
Photo 1 on the left is a no change negative result, on the right of the same photo is a positive result, where the pad has changed colour.
Photo 2 is a close up of the result, you can see how the pad has changed colour
Photos 3 shows how sometimes colour or spots just appear purple/burgundy around the edges of the pad, this indicates a positive result, results can vary from one small spot of colour to the whole pad colour change.
Test your bitches ovulation time at home.
Easy to read and cost effective
No need for expensive blood tests
No need to take your healthy bitch to the vets
Visit the website for FULL information and to
buy on line
www.ovulationpads.info/
Canine Ovulation Test Pads
www.ovulationpads.info/
ovulationpads@aol.com
Tel 01233 635544
HEALTH ISSUES
IN THE STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is by nature a robust
and healthy breed. However there are a couple of hereditary health issues
which you need to be aware of if you are considering buying a new puppy
or planning to breed from your bitch.
Report from
1.
L-2-HGA Hydroxyglutaric Aciduria
In the past few
years a small number of Staffords have been diagnosed with a metabolic
disorder, its clinical name is L2 hydroxyglutaric aciduria or L-2-HGA.
This condition manifests itself in varied ways with affected dogs displaying
behavioural changes and dementia, anxiety attacks, having full blown
seizures, as well as exercise intolerance and ataxia (unsteady gait),
tremors and muscular stiffness. Dogs from totally different bloodlines
have been found to be sufferers and the number of affected dogs diagnosed
has risen. The disorder (and a similar linked disorder D-2 HGA) is found
in humans, again very rare, but nevertheless devastating for those families
affected by it. The disorder has an autosomal recessive method of inheritance,
which means that both parents must be carriers of the affected gene
to produce affected offspring.
Through excessive
hard work not only on behalf of the Animal Health Trust at Newmarket
and by people submitting blood and urine samples from the families of
affected animals a genetic test has been determined to identify the
carriers of the gene which causes L-2-HGA.
IT IS THEREFORE
ADVISABLE THAT ALL BREEDING STOCK BE SCREENED IN ORDER TO ERADICATE
THIS CONDITION IN THE FUTURE.
This can be done by submitting a blood sample to the AHT at Newmarket.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
TESTING
CAN TAKE UP TO 6 WEEKS FOR RESULTS SO PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THIS
DONE IN PLENTY OF TIME BEFORE YOUR PLANNED MATING.
2. HC
– HEREDITARY CATARACTS.
It is known that
HC is inherited by and automal recessive path (i.e. both parents must
be carriers of the defective gene to produce and affected offspring).
HC is a progressive condition and this means that although a puppy is
not born with cataracts they will start to develop at a juvenile age.
(maybe from 8 months onwards), and will progress until the dog is totally
blind. This condition is bilateral which means is affects both eyes
equally. Thanks to the tireless research by the Animal Health Trust
in Newmarket there is a now a DNA Test for Hereditary Cataracts.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
3. PHPV
– PERSITENT HYPERPLASTIC PRIMARY VITREOUS
The mode of inheritance
of PHPV is not so clear, but it is known that it is a congenital condition
(present at birth) and that it is not progressive. This means that if
a puppy is born with PHPV it can be detected by ophthalmic screening
from 6 weeks of age and if it is affected, whatever the condition of
the problem at that stage it will not change throughout the dogs life.
Either of the above
conditions can be operated on, but it is a serious operation and can
be traumatic and very expensive. It is not always covered by insurance
due to the hereditary nature.
Even though the
genetic test is now available for Hereditary Cataracts it is still important
to screen for PHPV.
4. PPSC
– POSTERIOR POLAR SUBCAPSULAR CATARACT.
This type of cataracts
is found in other breeds, particularly the Labrador and Golden Retriever.
It usually remains as a small, punctuate cataract and doesn’t
usually lead to sight problems in these two breeds. It has been placed
on schedule 3 of the BVA/KC/ISDS Eye Scheme because a number of Staffords
that have been through the Scheme have been found to have this type
of cataract. This type of cataract cannot be detected through litter
screening. The mode of inheritance is unknown and has a variable age
of onset. BREEDING STOCK SHOULD BE TESTED ANNUALLY TO DETERMINE
THAT THE DOG IS CERTIFIED CLEAR AT THE TIME OF MATING.
Eye
Testing Clinics
Here are some of The Kennel Club rules on breeding
Before thinking about breeding from your bitch, you should acquaint yourself with the Kennel Club Regulations on registering litters and the registration system in general. A Guide to Litter Registration can be obtained from the Kennel Club, but you will need to remember that the Kennel Club will not accept an application to register a litter when:
a) The bitch has already whelped six litters, or
b) The bitch was under a year old at the date of mating, or
c) The bitch has already reached the age of eight years at the date of whelping.
N.B. Relief from the last restriction may be considered provided the dam has previously whelped at least one other registered litter, and a written application is made prior to mating and supported by veterinary evidence confirming the suitability of the bitch involved in the proposed whelping.
You will also need to ensure that your bitch's Kennel Club registration does not carry a breeding restriction (endorsement). If there are any, you will need to discuss this further with the person from whom you obtained the bitch, as any breeding endorsement will need to be removed before registration of a litter can take place. In most cases it will be the breeder who has placed the endorsement, and who will therefore be the person empowered to remove it.
The other test required is phpv eye testing,
This needs to be done by an eye specialist
We found it hard to find out where to get this testing done
(here is the contact details of the people we used They will be able to put you incontact with a specialist in your area )
MR Mason
Seadown Veterinary Group
Frost Lane
Hythe
Southampton
Hampshire
SO45 3NG
023 8084 2237
A) tell your vet your bitch may be pregnant, this may change the medication you are given.
Q) Should my bitch be health tested before breeding?
A) If your bitch was brought from parents clear of L2-GHA & HC, your kennel club paperwork should state this on registration papers, it will state hereditary clear of both L2-GHA & HC
If you do not see this then you should have your bitch tested (by useing a stud dog that is clear) your litter will not be affected themselves but could be carriers.
Q) How do I get my bitch tested?
A) A blood sample is sent to the AHT animal health trust its best to download your own form on line.(scroll to the bottom of this page to read more and to down load the forms required) take down loaded forms to your vet, at the time the blood is taken. It is advisable at all times to keep you bitch fit and not let her become over weight, but even more important in a bitch that you plan to breed from.
Q) At what point in the season do I take her to the stud dog?
A) This is the hardest thing to answer, the books say from 9 -12 days from the first day of colour (bleeding) but if only the bitches read books!! I recommend that each morning you dab your bitch with a white kitchen towel, at the start of her season it’s a dark red, as she reaches ovulation it becomes lighter in colour still blood stained but lighter and thinner than before!
You need to know when your bitch will stand for your chosen stud.
If you run your fingers down your bitches back towards the tail she will move her tail to one side please look to the picture below.
Q)my bitch had a litter on her last season, when can she have her next litter
A)the bitch should only have one litter a year, give her at least one season rest before mating her again
Please notice the difference in the position of the vulva in picture 1 & picture 2
When you see your bitch move her tail and lift her vulva as you scratch her tail base she is nearing ovulation at this point its time to try with your stud dog.
Q) When my bitch was taken to the stud she growled & would not let him near her. Why?
A) Try again tomorrow her mood can change that quickly, a bitch that is ovulating becomes very calm & placid, she knows when the time is right!
It can be very frustrating to travel a distance to the stud, and then she will not accept him but you will know by her mood straight away if mating will take place.
Never continue to try or you could end up with a fight on your hands, if the timing is right its an easy, calm & an enjoyable experience for all concerned.
Q) My bitch is a maiden (never been mated) what is the best type of dog to use with her?
A) In a maiden bitch its best to use a proven dog, this is a dog that knows what to do. Two first timers can be much harder to get a successful mating.
We have had a very high success rate on a mating that takes place on day 11 & day 13
But not all bitches are the same, some ovulate early & others very late.
When traveling a long distance to the stud dog it is important to take the bitch on the best day possible
We missed with Lola & Blue on our first attempt on her next season we will be trying out
Ovulation Test Pads
They have been highly reccomended by other breeders, this product is available from
www.ovulationpads.info/
We have put this information on our web page so you can try themThe Canine Ovulation Test Pads are cost effective, easy to read with instant results at home.
There is no need for complicated electrical testing or any other test that is sometimes hard to read or understand.
No need to take your bitch to the vets for blood tests when it’s so simple to test at home.
(quote direct from suppliers web site)
I was desperate to find a simple solution to see when my bitches were ovulating, it was hard for me as both seemed to have very light and almost silent seasons. After trying other testers and blood tests nothing seemed to work and everything was complicated or needed a trip to the vets. Then I found the Pads, my bitch fell pregnant and we had 9 healthy puppies.
How do they work?
The pads change colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy on the days your bitch is ovulating.
this is normally just 2 - 3 days per season.
You can start testing with the pads as early as day 1 of her season.
It is suggested an early start in case you have missed a few days of bleeding or colour
if your bitches have silent seasons. For best results you can test morning and evening
wipe the vulva area clean, open the vulva, and gently place the pad about 1 – 3 cm’s inside
place the pads sideways into the vulva so the pad soaks up vaginal fluid and hold in place for a count of 10 seconds
The pad edges are plastic and can be sharp please check before use but do not touch the pink part of the pad; this may lead to a false or incorrect result.
After 10 seconds remove the pad and ensure it is soaked with vaginal fluid, wait for 30 seconds, if the pad remains pink with no colour change at all, your bitch is not ovulating. If the pad starts to turn colour from Pink to Purple/Burgundy even if there is just one small spot or corner change of colour this is a positive result and your bitch is ovulating and you can plan her mating. If left longer than a few minutes the pads will naturally go darker in the air.
Please note the initial change only. Continue to test your bitch so you know exactly the days of ovulation and note when ovulation is complete.
The pads will then remain pink with no colour change confirming ovulation has passed.
Ovulation is triggered by the LH surge which causes the ovaries to release the developing eggs.
The eggs cannot be fertilised upon immediate release from the ovaries. However, normally within 24 – 48 hours after the eggs become sperm friendly and are ready to be fertilised.
Breeders have found that thier best results came from mating on the second day of ovulation then repeated 48 hours after.
However, if you need to travel to a Stud Dog the optimum day for mating when the eggs are sperm friendly is 48 hours after ovulation.
Note: Some bitches can ovulate as early as day 5 and as late as day 21!
WARNING! DON'T TOUCH THE PINK PART OF THE PAD,this may affect your results.
Here are some photographs of a Bulldog, This is just and example to show you how to use the pads.
1. Wipe the vulva area clean and wipe away any access blood. 2. Slightly open the vulva and insert the pad sideways up with the pink pad in the vulva about 2 – 3 cm’s inside. 3. Hold the pads in place for a count of 10 seconds. 4. Remove the pad and ensure the pad is damp with vaginal fluid. 5. Read the results and compare with the results pictures below if you are unsure. Below are 3 photos explaining positive and negative results.
Photo 1 on the left is a no change negative result, on the right of the same photo is a positive result, where the pad has changed colour. Photo 2 is a close up of the result, you can see how the pad has changed colour Photos 3 shows how sometimes colour or spots just appear purple/burgundy around the edges of the pad, this indicates a positive result, results can vary from one small spot of colour to the whole pad colour change.
Test your bitches ovulation time at home.
Easy to read and cost effective
No need for expensive blood tests
No need to take your healthy bitch to the vets
Visit the website for FULL information and to buy on line www.ovulationpads.info/
Canine Ovulation Test Pads
www.ovulationpads.info/
ovulationpads@aol.com
Tel 01233 635544
HEALTH ISSUES
IN THE STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is by nature a robust
and healthy breed. However there are a couple of hereditary health issues
which you need to be aware of if you are considering buying a new puppy
or planning to breed from your bitch.
Report from
1.
L-2-HGA Hydroxyglutaric Aciduria In the past few
years a small number of Staffords have been diagnosed with a metabolic
disorder, its clinical name is L2 hydroxyglutaric aciduria or L-2-HGA.
This condition manifests itself in varied ways with affected dogs displaying
behavioural changes and dementia, anxiety attacks, having full blown
seizures, as well as exercise intolerance and ataxia (unsteady gait),
tremors and muscular stiffness. Dogs from totally different bloodlines
have been found to be sufferers and the number of affected dogs diagnosed
has risen. The disorder (and a similar linked disorder D-2 HGA) is found
in humans, again very rare, but nevertheless devastating for those families
affected by it. The disorder has an autosomal recessive method of inheritance,
which means that both parents must be carriers of the affected gene
to produce affected offspring. Through excessive
hard work not only on behalf of the Animal Health Trust at Newmarket
and by people submitting blood and urine samples from the families of
affected animals a genetic test has been determined to identify the
carriers of the gene which causes L-2-HGA. IT IS THEREFORE
ADVISABLE THAT ALL BREEDING STOCK BE SCREENED IN ORDER TO ERADICATE
THIS CONDITION IN THE FUTURE. It is known that
HC is inherited by and automal recessive path (i.e. both parents must
be carriers of the defective gene to produce and affected offspring).
HC is a progressive condition and this means that although a puppy is
not born with cataracts they will start to develop at a juvenile age.
(maybe from 8 months onwards), and will progress until the dog is totally
blind. This condition is bilateral which means is affects both eyes
equally. Thanks to the tireless research by the Animal Health Trust
in Newmarket there is a now a DNA Test for Hereditary Cataracts. The mode of inheritance
of PHPV is not so clear, but it is known that it is a congenital condition
(present at birth) and that it is not progressive. This means that if
a puppy is born with PHPV it can be detected by ophthalmic screening
from 6 weeks of age and if it is affected, whatever the condition of
the problem at that stage it will not change throughout the dogs life.
Either of the above
conditions can be operated on, but it is a serious operation and can
be traumatic and very expensive. It is not always covered by insurance
due to the hereditary nature. Even though the
genetic test is now available for Hereditary Cataracts it is still important
to screen for PHPV. This type of cataracts
is found in other breeds, particularly the Labrador and Golden Retriever. Here are some of The Kennel Club rules on breeding Before thinking about breeding from your bitch, you should acquaint yourself with the Kennel Club Regulations on registering litters and the registration system in general. A Guide to Litter Registration can be obtained from the Kennel Club, but you will need to remember that the Kennel Club will not accept an application to register a litter when: a) The bitch has already whelped six litters, or b) The bitch was under a year old at the date of mating, or c) The bitch has already reached the age of eight years at the date of whelping. N.B. Relief from the last restriction may be considered provided the dam has previously whelped at least one other registered litter, and a written application is made prior to mating and supported by veterinary evidence confirming the suitability of the bitch involved in the proposed whelping. You will also need to ensure that your bitch's Kennel Club registration does not carry a breeding restriction (endorsement). If there are any, you will need to discuss this further with the person from whom you obtained the bitch, as any breeding endorsement will need to be removed before registration of a litter can take place. In most cases it will be the breeder who has placed the endorsement, and who will therefore be the person empowered to remove it.
This can be done by submitting a blood sample to the AHT at Newmarket.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
TESTING
CAN TAKE UP TO 6 WEEKS FOR RESULTS SO PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THIS
DONE IN PLENTY OF TIME BEFORE YOUR PLANNED MATING.
2. HC
– HEREDITARY CATARACTS.
For instructions on sample collection please download request for DNA
testing form HERE
3. PHPV
– PERSITENT HYPERPLASTIC PRIMARY VITREOUS
4. PPSC
– POSTERIOR POLAR SUBCAPSULAR CATARACT.
It usually remains as a small, punctuate cataract and doesn’t
usually lead to sight problems in these two breeds. It has been placed
on schedule 3 of the BVA/KC/ISDS Eye Scheme because a number of Staffords
that have been through the Scheme have been found to have this type
of cataract. This type of cataract cannot be detected through litter
screening. The mode of inheritance is unknown and has a variable age
of onset. BREEDING STOCK SHOULD BE TESTED ANNUALLY TO DETERMINE
THAT THE DOG IS CERTIFIED CLEAR AT THE TIME OF MATING.
Eye
Testing Clinics
The other test required is phpv eye testing,
This needs to be done by an eye specialist
We found it hard to find out where to get this testing done
(here is the contact details of the people we used They will be able to put you incontact with a specialist in your area )
MR Mason
Seadown Veterinary Group
Frost Lane
Hythe
Southampton
Hampshire
SO45 3NG
023 8084 2237